Family, Frank and Finale.

finale

By its very nature, Charcuterie is a slow food. Preparing to make it takes time, actually making it takes time and it takes time to wait until it’s ready to eat. There is nothing about the process that can be considered quick. Just think about it, even making the least time-consuming sausage takes a couple hours, lots of energy and counter space.

This past year has been a year of enlightenment and great tactile pleasure in the creation of our own Charcuterie. Even the failure of the first Duck Prosciutto taught us a great lesson on procurement and quality of the starting ingredients…after all, without a good start, the end can be no better.

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Bresaola on my Mind

bresaolasmall

This month’s Charcutepalooza challenge was all about curing a hunk of meat. Fully convinced that I didn’t have an appropriate space to hang meat for 3-4 weeks, I figured I was finally unable to complete a challenge. Right at the end, too. Rotten luck.

However, in thinking it out amidst all my whining, I realized I did have the perfect place to cure it, I’d just have to be organized (that’s not as easy for me as it is for others.) My husband had recently gotten a keg/fermenting fridge and had vacated my single door, glass-front fridge in our garage for his own, greener pastures. We hooked up a temperature controller and a hygrometer (something to measure humidity) and I got to work. Knowing full well that I would need that fridge by Thanksgiving, I naturally waited until the last possible minute to get my meat curing.

And cure I did, after all I had the whole refrigerator to myself. [Read more...]

Lady Galantine’s Lover

daphne

I saw her from across the room. She was perfection. Studying her grace, elegance and beauty, I wanted her. Badly. I didn’t care if she was alone and I didn’t care that others wanted her; she would be mine. Mine to ravish.

I reached her side as she quietly sat there, in the coolness of the morning. She was covered in goose bumps as if she were shivering; as if she knew she was out of place. I knew I could help her…I knew I could make her feel more comfortable in her own skin.  Most of all, I knew she and I were meant to be together. It was kismet. [Read more...]

A Duck Walks Into a Bar …

platterweb

A duck walks into a bar. And he says to the bartender “Got any cherries?” The bartender says “No, I don’t have any cherries.” The duck walks out, sorely disappointed.

So the next day, he walks back into the bar, asks the same question, gets the same answer.

The day after, he walks back into the bar, and again, asks the bartender, “Do you have any cherries?” The bartender, having still not figured out why this duck seems to think he may have some grapes, says to the duck, “No, and if you come back in here tomorrow and ask me if I have any cherries, I will nail your bill to the bar!”

The duck frowns, turns around, and walks out of the bar. So the next day, the duck walks back into the bar, and asks the bartender “Got any nails?”

The bartender says, “No.”

So the duck says, “Got any cherries?”


Silliness aside, ducks and cherries are perfect together. Just like ham and cheese. Just like fall and pumpkins and just like football and snacks. Football and snacks. A perfect match and two things my family takes very seriously. We don’t just watch games, we live them. Football watching is verbal, aerobic and darned near a contact sport. We wait for football season all year long and mourn its end every February. Such passion needs great snacks and this month’s challenge fit perfectly with the beginning of football season.

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The One Where I Make Pork Feet Jelly

terinne-small

Nearly every month, the Charcutepalooza challenge becomes a challenge just getting the proper ingredients. Nowhere in my town is pork belly, fatback, beef bung or duck breasts. Not this month. This month, the main ingredient is easily found …

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Indelible.

Indelible … that which cannot be eliminated, forgotten or changed.

Here we are, a bit over halfway through our “Year of Meat,” or “Charcutepalooza.” Less half is left in a challenge that has already left an indelible imprint on my life.

The learning curve has been steep in spots. The results have been sometimes sketchy, sometimes awful, occasionally stunning and always fun. Take this month’s challenge, for example. Never in a million years would I have ever believed that I could make Mortadella and that it would turn into something we could eat.

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Winner, Winner, Chicken Sausage Dinner!

We knew we were in for trouble the moment we got the phone call that said “I’ve got 30 pounds of pork…wanna make sausage?”

A friend of ours had gotten a meat grinder for Christmas and had yet to use it. We’d been talking about Charcutepalooza with him and that we were going to be making chicken sausage with the 10 lbs of chicken thighs we’d bought just for the occasion. We’d kind of suggested to our friend that he might want to come watch, or even make a couple pounds of sausage himself. We warned him against taking on too much for his first batch, but never dreamed he’d go that far over the edge…30 lbs?!?!??

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May. Merguez. Mmm.

Image via Wikipedia

About May…you know, the month not the person. (I don’t actually know anyone named May, so any ambiguity is of my own making.) Wikipedia has a little to say about May:

May is the fifth month of the year in the Julian and Gregorian Calendars and one of seven months with the length of 31 days.

This is true. This month also marks the fifth Charcutepalooza challenge that we were tasked with…naturally, more on that in a bit.

May is a month of autumn in the Southern Hemisphere and spring in the Northern Hemisphere. Therefore May in the Southern Hemisphere is the seasonal equivalent of November in the Northern Hemisphere and vice versa.

This is also true, but I believe with all my heart that the Earth has somehow flipped upside down since it’s still snowing here and still cold and the wind is still howling and I’m still unable to plant anything outside just like November. In May.

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Bacon, Beer & Breakfast

Let me start off by saying I am an incredible procrastinator. I’d look up whether I am the biggest one, but I’m too lazy. That said, I was very excited about this month’s Charcutepalooza challenge. Canadian Bacon!! I can hear the ukuleles playing, now. After all, Hawaiian Pizza is my favorite!

There was an entire month ahead of me in which to make this wonderful thing and create wonderful, yummy food and a month to put the entire thing off until the last minute. Yup, you guessed it….almost. Not only did I put it off until the last minute, I put it completely off until the day before we were going to the forest in Northern California to spend a week at my in-laws home.

My in-laws are good sports. They were pretty unfazed by the sourdough starter I brought for a two-week visit when it was just a baby. All those feedings never really threw them off. They rarely blink an eye when I get up on vacation and “whip up” breads, scones, massive dinners and more when we’re all thinking how relaxing this place in the woods can be. After all, they have a huge kitchen!

This week, they were true to form. Not a single hesitation when I called and asked if they still had their little electric smoker in the garage. “Sure!,” they said, “We’re ready!!” So, along with our suitcases, we schlepped my pork loin (in brine) and some Alaskan salmon I had cured and wanted to get some smoke on.

The perfect afternoon came along. It had been snowing lightly all week and there were still drifts of snow around, so it was a real treat to all sit on the deck and watch the smoker, drinks in hand, naturally. We put the meat in, put the cherry chips in, plugged it in and sat back, waiting for the smoke. We waited and waited and waited. Finally, we checked on the smoker and nothing. It was absolutely cold. Hmmm.

We unplugged it from the extension cord and plugged it directly into the socket. Nothing. Hmmm. Checked breakers, nothing. Hmmm. Took the smoker apart and checked its pulse with the multi-tester. Nothing. Hmmm. Hmmm. Hmmm.

All this hmmming seemed to cause the light to come on! It was on the deck and it was a GCFI outlet! D’oh! Plugged it in and began the smoke watch again, more drinks in hand.

Finally, the smoking was finished and we ended up with about 3 lbs of Canadian Bacon and a pound of Salmon. The biggest surprise to me (and I have no idea why) was that it really was Canadian Bacon! Pink and smoky and not at all slimy like commercial Canadian Bacon seems to be. The taste makes my mouth happy!

What to do with all this bacony goodness? Eggs Benedict. I’m sure that nearly everyone is going to use their Canadian Bacon for that..after all, National Eggs Benedict Day is April 16.  I wanted to make my fellow Charcutepaloozans proud! Since I had left my homemade English Muffins home (of course) I  ran to the store and grab some. Nope. This country store didn’t have any. So my idea changed a bit and I grabbed a loaf of cracked wheat sourdough bread and some Sierra Nevada beer. The thought of Eggs Benedict with Crystal Wheat Hollandaise on Cracked Wheat Sourdough Toast…kinda made me giddy.

There’s a slight tang from the beer and a bit of a wheaty taste in the Hollandaise from the Old Chico beer. Married with the really smoky Canadian Bacon and the chewy, rustic sourdough, it made a nifty change to the old hair-of-the-dog breakfast standby!

 

Eggs Benedict with Crystal Wheat Hollandaise

For the Hollandaise:

2 egg yolks
½ stick butter, melted
1-2 drops fresh lemon juice
1T (or more, as needed) Old Chico Crystal Wheat beer, or other flavorful, light ale
Dash cayenne Pepper
Salt to taste

Find a bowl that’s not too big for the yolks, but big enough to allow for expansion. You’ll also need a balloon whisk that fits comfortable in your hand. Make sure the bowl is one you’ll be comfortable whisking in and one that can go atop a small pot of water on the stove, while you are whisking. Add enough water to the pot to not touch the bottom of the bowl, but to allow for enough steam at a good simmer. Add a little of the beer to the egg yolks in the bowl and whisk together. Place the bowl over the small pot of simmering water and continue to whisk. Remove the bowl occasionally, and whisk on the countertop. (Ultimately, you don’t want to make scrambled eggs, but you do want to cook the sauce as you’re whisking.) Continue to whisk until the yolks become light yellow and slightly fluffy. They will become lemon colored and create a thick ribbon when the whisk is pulled from the bowl. Add your melted butter in a drizzle and whisk further. Do not add too much butter at one time. You are trying to incorporate the butter into the eggs into one emulsified sauce. There should be pooling of butter. Continue adding the butter and whisking while taking the bowl on and off the pot of simmering water, in order to keep in warm. As it thickens, add the lemon juice and a bit more beer until you reach the consistence you desire. It should pour nicely, not too thin and not too thick. Add the cayenne and salt and taste, adding more, as needed. Keep the sauce to the side, whisking and warming again right before your assemble your dish.

For the eggs:

You’ll need 2 eggs and a tablespoon of white vinegar, or lemon juice
small pot with enough water to cover the raw eggs completely

Add the vinegar or lemon juice to the water and bring to a very low simmer. Almost no movement on the water is better. Very carefully crack the eggs into the water, carefully and poach them for about 4 minutes, depending upon the temperature of your water. You’ll know they’re done when you lift them out with a slotted spoon and the whites are no longer translucent, but the yolks are still runny. At this point, you can serve them immediately or put them in an ice water bath for later. If you put them in ice water, when you’re ready to reheat them, take them from the ice water, trim them up with scissors to look nice and place in the water for about 30 seconds to warm them up. Scoop them out, and use as fresh.

To assemble the Eggs Benedict

Toast one large piece of Cracked Wheat Sourdough bread, butter and top with the warmed Canadian Bacon. Top this with two poached eggs and drizzle liberally with Hollandaise Sauce. (Note: I topped everything with a small amount of smoked salmon and chopped fresh dill, that’s optional.)

Serve with beer!

Using the Sierra Nevada Porter and mustard as inspiration, I figured Ham and Cheese Empanadas with Porter Mustard Cream sauce might be pretty tasty. The pie crust benefitted from a bit of the Porter in the crust that helped tie them into the sauce. These are easy to make and great as an appetizer or, if made bigger, a nice dinner sandwich.

Canadian Bacon and Ham Empanadas with Porter Crust

¾ c. diced Canadian Bacon
½ c. diced Swiss Cheese
Mix these together

1 ¼ c. flour
½ c. butter, cut into small pieces
¼ c. (or more) very cold Sierra Nevada Porter, or other dark beer

1 Egg, mixed together with a little water for an egg wash

Cut fat into the flour until it is about the size of peas. Add enough beer for the flour to come together into a rough ball. You may not need all the beer, but don’t worry if you need a little bit more. Don’t work it too much, or it may become tough. Place in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least a half hour.

Heat oven to 400F

 Roll out on a floured surface and cut into circles at least 2” across. The cooking time is the same for larger empanadas, but you get more the smaller you make them.

Top each round with the meat and cheese mixture.

Brush the edges of each round, fold over and seal with a fork. Place on a parchment-lined sheet pan.

When all have been rolled out, brush the top of each empanada with egg wash and bake for approximately 15-20 minutes.

Sierra Nevada Porter Mustard Sauce

1 T. Butter
1 T. Flour
1 c. Sierra Nevada cold Sierra Nevada Porter, or other dark beer
¼ c. Heavy Cream
3T Brown Mustard
Dash Cholula or other hot sauce
Salt, to taste

Make a roux by slowly melting the butter in a pan, add the flour and stir and cook just until it makes a paste and cooks a bit to remove the flour taste. Add the beer and cream, whisking constantly, until all is blended and no lumps remain. Add the Cholula and mustard, stir to blend. Cook until thick and creamy, do not boil. Serve warm or cold.

Sláinte is Táinte

This month’s Charcutepalooza challenge was to brine something…you know, like a chicken or a brisket, and completely transform that ordinary meat into something luscious and completely elevated outside itself. Sounds like a pretty tall order, doesn’t it??

I’d actually corned a beef brisket once before and while it was good, I knew it could’ve been better. For one thing, it was completely gray. It tasted fine, but the color wasn’t what you kind of expect from a corned beef, so I was hoping that part would be different. Since I knew my family would love this challenge, I went “whole hog” and got a 15 lb brisket and decided that a third of it would be pastrami.

Mmmm. Pastrami. The mere thought of it makes my mouth water in a way that corned beef can only dream. [Read more...]